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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 19
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![]() What can you do to prevent your block from cracking? Is there a certain block to use that will withstand more? I plan on running a twin turbo setup running very high boost and want to be running at least 10's. Any suggestions?
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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![]() someone else here will probably know more but yes there are different blocks.
there are mexican blocks, I think the nickel content is higher or something. Sportsman blocks, I'm not sure what is different about them but I think they are even stronger Then there is the 302R block, it has 4 bolt mains and has thicker webbing and such. It can handle large amounts of horsepower but is rather expensive. or you could do a 351, they are stronger than 302 blocks aswell
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![]() '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Valdese, NC
Posts: 361
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![]() You can run mid to high 10's with the stock block and no more than 15 lbs of boost. A friend's turbo mustang ran 10.80's at 129 mph on 12 lbs of boost from just a single turbo. His combo: Trick Flow heads & intake, stock cam, bigger fuel system, and of course, the turbo.
To answer your question though, a Dart block or R302 are both aftermarket blocks that can withstand much lower et's than 10's.
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91 single turbo vert |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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![]() if you do want to push the stock block, you can strengthen it by using a main cap girdle, windage trays and crankshaft scrapers help too
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![]() '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 19
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![]() hmm windage trays are whats in your oil pan right>? to stop from oil sloshing around? and may sound stupid but not sure what a main cap gridle, and a crank scraper is.
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#6 |
Confederate Cowboy
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Southeast Missouri
Posts: 546
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![]() A main girdle is a piece of metal that you bolt to your main caps. It strengthens them by tying them together as one unit. A crank skraper, if I'm right, scrapes any oil away from the crank as it's spinning. This is suppose to increase you hp.
As far as blocks go, you could go with one of Ford's Sportman blocks. They have much more thicker main caps than a regular windsor block. The 302 retails for around 700 ( i think) and is capable of withstanding 600 hp max. The 351 is around 999 dollars and has a max hp of 1000. If you can't go with one of those then I suggest an earlier 302 or 351w block, something along the lines of mid to late 60's and early 70's. There much stronger than the 80's castings. As far as the mexican block having a higer nickel content and being stronger, that's something that is debated upon people. Some of them say that's it and some say no. I'm not sure if that's right or not but people swear by the block. Daniel. |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Posts: 351
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![]() correct on the windage tray
a crank scraper scrapes oil off of the crankshaft so that it stays better balanced at high RPM's A main cap girdle bolts on to the main caps so that they are supported on the lower end of them. check out www.dssracing.com again, this is as much as I know and should not be taken as the bottom line. Just trying to get you started on your own search for a good setup for your car
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![]() '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care. |
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#8 |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() Good machine work, main cap girdle, main cap studs, and fill the water jackets up half way with hard block. That is about all you can do to keep them together longer.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 19
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![]() Hard block wont make the engine over heart?
That is when you fill the water jacket up right? |
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#10 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Quote:
![]() Take care, ÅChris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#11 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Quote:
You fill them half way, and yes, the engine will run warmer, but there are steps that can be taken to help with engine temp. Take care, ÅChris
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Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local
RED & WHITE! |
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#12 | |
gear banger
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: CHICAGO
Posts: 1,144
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![]() Quote:
I have mine filled and have no cooling problems. Now that you mention it... it runs to cool. I have a 160 stat in there and that is where it will stay and I run a electric water pump. I also run a oil cooler to help keep the temps down.
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79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 |
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