OIL Pump Siezure?

Skyman · 08-16-2001, 03:08 PM

Well as some of you know my oil pump bit the dust a while back and snapped the driveshaft. I got a new hardened shaft and Im going to change the pump finally this week.

But what would have caused it to go? And any tips on changing the pump? Looks like its gonna be a real pain in the *** .

Skyler

------------------
-1989 Saleen Mustang #406-
TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20.
12.54@107.4 Motor
332RWHP, 350rwtq

Rick 91GT · 08-16-2001, 03:53 PM

Hey, Sky hows it been?

The easiest way unfortunatly is to yank the motor. I know it's a PIA I had to do it last weekend to replace the pan gasket. Make sure you ask for the THICK Felpro 1 piece, most guys do not know about the thick gasket but it is so much nicer $24.

The shaft may have just been fatiqued or the extra stress when the juice came on snapped it. Are you running a Hi-Volume oil pump they will do it as well. Check the clearance between the shaft and distributor as well.

Good Luck,

Rick

------------------
Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! <B

oldman · 08-16-2001, 04:42 PM

I am having to do the same ting on our brand new 306. Something siezed and broke a second oil pump shaft and it was a brand new Melling standard flow pump. I'm sitting here with a new ARP shaft but I'm afraid the bottom end is toast. It was barely above an idle when it happened but I don't think that saved anything down low. We'll find out tomorrow hopefully and yes the only way to get at it is through the bottom so out comes the engine. I did order a set of Ford Racing roller rockers so they get to find a new home at the same time.
This is the second one (shaft)to let go. THe first one went 184,000 miles but this new one only went about 3000 miles. Oh well. . .should know how esspensive this is gonna be soon.
By the way, the first shaft that broke was twisted kinda like a drill bit up to the point where it broke. Is this normal? It looked like it was made that way.
?????

[This message has been edited by oldman (edited 08-16-2001).]

fiveliter8 · 08-16-2001, 05:34 PM

Mine snapped two of them a few years back. Both times I was at highway speeds with the radio blaring and didn't know there was a problem till I heard what I thought was radio noise-which was actually my valvetrain screaming for oil. It turned out to be a teeeeeny tiny chunk of gasket material that got wedged in the pump gears. Found out the screen on the pickup had a little spot that came detached and that's where the gasket piece came in. I changed both with the engine in the car. Had to do a bit of yoga but it all came out. Definitely have to unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine as high as possible. Also, when replacing the gaskets, I sprayed the bottom of the block with spray adhesive as well as the one side of the oil pan gasket. Stuck the gasket to the block which made easy work of replacing the oil pan. Yep, both of my shafts looked like pretzels after the pump jammed up. Oh, and one other thing. Not sure if it happened at the same time but both of my oil galley plugs on the front of the engine blew out, went through the timing set and down into the pan. I found them while changing the pump. What a mess!

------------------
Factory Five Roadster Build
Yellow T-roofed 84GT (In users rides)&
20th Anniversary GT350 ragtop

93CobraR · 08-16-2001, 09:10 PM

As I'm sure you remember this just happen to me recently. Mine got a compression stop from the valve cover gasket down in the motor and siezed the oil pump up and twisted the shaft till it broke. I though changing it with the motor in the car was rather easy. I just disconnected what needed to be disconnected to get the motor up and jacked the tranny up a little and the pan slide right out. I used a 4 pc. Fel-Pro gasket and sprayed glue to the block and gasket like mentioned and stuck it right on there. I then put the pan in place and put the oil pump in. Everything sealed perfect and I have no leaks at all. I thought it was rather easy my self.

------------------
87 GT, Cobra R's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031,1.7's, Edelbrock intake, long tubes,BBK cold air, Mass air,pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra,Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's.
Best time 12.759
Best MPH 106.79
Best 60' 1.695

Visit my site at:
http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html

Capri306 · 08-17-2001, 12:56 AM

Sky, just make sure that you change the pickup screen when you do the pump too, just to eliminate the possibility of junk from the old screen flying up into the new pump.

A lot of times, jumping on it when the engine is still cold will make for more strain on the pump. The reason being that the oil isn't yet warm enough to thin out, even though there's viscosity indexers in it.

The other theory is the distributor shaft could be deflecting enough to make it try to bend & turn like a speedometer cable. SNAP! Clearancing the place where the distributor gear rides is suggested by a lot of the 5.0 books. Another thing the books suggest is slight chamfering of the casting and rotors of the pump. I'm doing this right now on my Melling HV, to try and avoid this type of thing. Just my .02

------------------
Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online
1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73
1987 Mustang LX Notch

oldman · 08-17-2001, 01:21 AM

Did anyone here lose any bearings when this happened? I have an awful feeling the mains and rod bearings are gone. He got it shut down pretty quick because he was watching the oil pressure gauge when it lost pressure but I'm thinking it wasn't quick enough.

08-16-2001, 03:08 PM	#1
Skyman I need 110mph Trap Speed! Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: So, CA Posts: 4,315	OIL Pump Siezure? Well as some of you know my oil pump bit the dust a while back and snapped the driveshaft. I got a new hardened shaft and Im going to change the pump finally this week. But what would have caused it to go? And any tips on changing the pump? Looks like its gonna be a real pain in the * . Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq**

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08-16-2001, 03:53 PM	#2
Rick 91GT Procharged! Join Date: May 1999 Location: Hanover, PA Posts: 1,539	Hey, Sky hows it been? The easiest way unfortunatly is to yank the motor. I know it's a PIA I had to do it last weekend to replace the pan gasket. Make sure you ask for the THICK Felpro 1 piece, most guys do not know about the thick gasket but it is so much nicer $24. The shaft may have just been fatiqued or the extra stress when the juice came on snapped it. Are you running a Hi-Volume oil pump they will do it as well. Check the clearance between the shaft and distributor as well. Good Luck, Rick ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension, SPEC stage III clutch, Lakewood SFI bell, S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! <B

08-16-2001, 04:42 PM	#3
oldman Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Amarillo, Texas, 79107 Posts: 78	I am having to do the same ting on our brand new 306. Something siezed and broke a second oil pump shaft and it was a brand new Melling standard flow pump. I'm sitting here with a new ARP shaft but I'm afraid the bottom end is toast. It was barely above an idle when it happened but I don't think that saved anything down low. We'll find out tomorrow hopefully and yes the only way to get at it is through the bottom so out comes the engine. I did order a set of Ford Racing roller rockers so they get to find a new home at the same time. This is the second one (shaft)to let go. THe first one went 184,000 miles but this new one only went about 3000 miles. Oh well. . .should know how esspensive this is gonna be soon. By the way, the first shaft that broke was twisted kinda like a drill bit up to the point where it broke. Is this normal? It looked like it was made that way. ????? [This message has been edited by oldman (edited 08-16-2001).]

08-16-2001, 05:34 PM	#4
fiveliter8 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Posts: 334	Mine snapped two of them a few years back. Both times I was at highway speeds with the radio blaring and didn't know there was a problem till I heard what I thought was radio noise-which was actually my valvetrain screaming for oil. It turned out to be a teeeeeny tiny chunk of gasket material that got wedged in the pump gears. Found out the screen on the pickup had a little spot that came detached and that's where the gasket piece came in. I changed both with the engine in the car. Had to do a bit of yoga but it all came out. Definitely have to unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine as high as possible. Also, when replacing the gaskets, I sprayed the bottom of the block with spray adhesive as well as the one side of the oil pan gasket. Stuck the gasket to the block which made easy work of replacing the oil pan. Yep, both of my shafts looked like pretzels after the pump jammed up. Oh, and one other thing. Not sure if it happened at the same time but both of my oil galley plugs on the front of the engine blew out, went through the timing set and down into the pan. I found them while changing the pump. What a mess! ------------------ Factory Five Roadster Build Yellow T-roofed 84GT (In users rides)& 20th Anniversary GT350 ragtop

08-16-2001, 09:10 PM	#5
93CobraR Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Cincinnati, Ohio Posts: 1,575	As I'm sure you remember this just happen to me recently. Mine got a compression stop from the valve cover gasket down in the motor and siezed the oil pump up and twisted the shaft till it broke. I though changing it with the motor in the car was rather easy. I just disconnected what needed to be disconnected to get the motor up and jacked the tranny up a little and the pan slide right out. I used a 4 pc. Fel-Pro gasket and sprayed glue to the block and gasket like mentioned and stuck it right on there. I then put the pan in place and put the oil pump in. Everything sealed perfect and I have no leaks at all. I thought it was rather easy my self. ------------------ 87 GT, Cobra R's,GT-40 heads,Crane 2031,1.7's, Edelbrock intake, long tubes,BBK cold air, Mass air,pulleys,Pro 5.0, King Cobra,Lakewood Lift Bars,50/50's,subframes, 4.10's. Best time 12.759 Best MPH 106.79 Best 60' 1.695 Visit my site at: http://www.geocities.com/cobrar93_2000/MyPage.html

08-17-2001, 12:56 AM	#6
Capri306 Moderator Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA Posts: 1,001	Sky, just make sure that you change the pickup screen when you do the pump too, just to eliminate the possibility of junk from the old screen flying up into the new pump. A lot of times, jumping on it when the engine is still cold will make for more strain on the pump. The reason being that the oil isn't yet warm enough to thin out, even though there's viscosity indexers in it. The other theory is the distributor shaft could be deflecting enough to make it try to bend & turn like a speedometer cable. SNAP! Clearancing the place where the distributor gear rides is suggested by a lot of the 5.0 books. Another thing the books suggest is slight chamfering of the casting and rotors of the pump. I'm doing this right now on my Melling HV, to try and avoid this type of thing. Just my .02 ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch

08-17-2001, 01:21 AM	#7
oldman Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Amarillo, Texas, 79107 Posts: 78	Did anyone here lose any bearings when this happened? I have an awful feeling the mains and rod bearings are gone. He got it shut down pretty quick because he was watching the oil pressure gauge when it lost pressure but I'm thinking it wasn't quick enough.