low 14s

dark horse · 03-23-2000, 10:00 PM

What mods would it take to get my stang into the low 14s high 13s so i can run with the kids around here... My car is a 1968 289 with 2 barrel and c-4. Only mods are full length headers and glass packs which im ditching for 2 chamber flows cuz they are too loud. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe.
289 2v. c-4 automatic
Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

Clark Rodgers · 03-24-2000, 10:49 AM

Two things I can think of right off the bat is 4V carb/intake and some taller gears. These will probably be the easiest things to change and get you the most bang for the buck. If you want to enter the engine we could get into some good stuff

.

------------------
69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

dark horse · 03-24-2000, 11:43 PM

Yes, lets enter the engine. Speed is good. Umm.. how about a cam too. something that will give me a bad *** power band right up to 5500rpms.. can my stock bottom end handle that engine speed? I would go with a 600 or 650cfm with vacumm secondaries and a performer RPM intaeke? Then I would need a good cam grind, something with good low end as well as horses right up to 5500 thats as high as i want to go with this car. Will my 8 in be good enough or should I get a 9?

------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe.
289 2v. c-4 automatic
Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

BigBad65 · 03-25-2000, 05:02 PM

I use the whole Edelbrock RPM package with a 750 carb in my car, and it puts me right into the low 14's with a 6000rpm shift point and that was with my old 3 speed, and stock 3.00 gearing. Although I dont recomend putting anything radical in your car with out a good rebuild. But the block can handle it.

...an 8 inch is plenty strong enough.
-kevin

------------------
Sit Down, Shut Up, and Hang On!

Check Out my Home Page:

http://badboy.stangnet.com

Rev · 03-28-2000, 07:50 PM

My '66 runs low 14's with the mods listed in my signature. The Currie 8" 3.25 Traction-lock has held up well with the C-4. There shouldn't be any problems with bottom end for a 289 0r 302 with this level of power. You should have good aftermarket rod bolts though. I have Pioneer but ARP are probably better.

Rev

------------------
'66 Coupe, 306, windage
tray, TRW flat tops, 351W
heads,pocket ported, 268
CC hydraulic cam, R tip
R's, Edelbrock Performer,
600 CFM Holley vac. secs.,
Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel
pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 "
custom pipes, 3 chamber
Flows, stock C-4, 3.25
Currie built 8" rear
and whatever else I
forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph
1/4 mi.

Ron1 · 03-28-2000, 08:23 PM

Rev, Remember his 68 is about 350 pounds heavier than your Coupe. I would go for the Performer RPM package from Edelbrock. It has a 1500 to 6500 RPM power band. 9.5 to 1 comp. Dual plane and 4 barrel. Then maybe a gear change but be careful since you have a C4 not to go too crazy. With the exhaust, go Flowmasters and squeeze out another 12 or so HP by going to the Dr. Gas X pipe. Another 10 or so HP using an underdrive crank pulley, K&N filter, MSD 6AL and a Blaster II coil.

Now we could always ad about a 100 HP shot and off we go.

Ron

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-28-2000).]

dark horse · 03-29-2000, 11:52 PM

I was thinking about the 125 hp shot but i iam unsure if the engine could handle it. Is theere a certain compression ratio that nitrous likes?

------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe.
289 2v. c-4 automatic
Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

dark horse · 03-30-2000, 10:25 PM

Also, if I installed a B&M AOD, would it be ok to race? I heard you can't shift them yourself because you have to put it in Drive then First Then back to drive because there is no 2nd gear selection. This also ruins the overdrive. Fact or Fiction? Can this be fixed? I NEED OVERDRIVE!

------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe.
289 2v. c-4 automatic
Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

Ron1 · 03-31-2000, 12:44 AM

If you have cast pistons, I might not go over 100 HP, with hypereutectics 150, and forged I have no fear of going 200 and up, if all the other pieces of the puzzle are in place. Main girdle support, ARP rod bolts and so on. I run a 100 HP on my 302, right off the line we are wide open. Never had a problem. Check my plugs after every pass. Keep an eye on the timing. 2 degrees retarted for every hundred horse. On my Coupe I had a Jacobs Mastermind. Came on real slow, and the flow of the NOS increased as the RPM's came up. Reached the 100HP level at around 5K. Compression ratio on both cars is around 10.0/1.

As far as the gear box, look at the Lentech AOD. They install a valve body, so it is a normal shift pattern, rather than what you describe. I run a ATI C4 in my 65 FB, but it almost never sees the streets, so gas mileage is not an issue. If you need more info on Lentech, I have some articles on their tranny's and phone numbers.

Ron

Almost forgot, I have a 68 FB on my site, you might get a kick out of...so far a 5 year project but almost done.
www.rfedd.bigstep.com

[This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-31-2000).]

351w67MustangGuy · 04-01-2000, 06:24 PM

Hey Ron i would LOVE that lentech AOD info. I have a c4 right now and it has completely lost reverse, 1st has almost become neutral and 2nd is on it's way out. I am also upgrading to a 9" and wondering what gears i should go for and since this is my only car and it get driven EVERYDAY on the freeway an overdrive would be helpful.

------------------
67 Mustang Coupe w/351 Windsor 405hp 2.79 gears & street tires ran 13.01 @ 105.9 mph

351w67MustangGuy · 04-01-2000, 06:26 PM

oh yeah and when is that 68 going to be up and running? i'm dying to hear what happens.

Ron1 · 04-01-2000, 09:08 PM

I went back thru the article, and it says it is Lentech Automatics, Richmond, Ontario, Canada. I went back thru some of my back issues of ND could not find a phone number, but I know they run adds in all the major Ford magazines. The article does say they have many HP levels and prices. If you decide to go with the AOD I might go with 3.77's. If you have not upgraded to the 9 inch yet, I might even consider shortening it. If you read thru the info on the 68 on the page, I was able to squeeze 10.5 inch slicks with no major clearance problems.

I am hoping to have the 514 68 ready by July.
The season just started here and I am in the points running this year, so time and $$$ is really tight.

Ron

dark horse · 04-04-2000, 09:18 PM

Yeah my c4 is losing reverse! it sucks!

------------------
1968 Mustang Coupe.
289 2v. c-4 automatic
Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

03-23-2000, 10:00 PM	#1
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	low 14s What mods would it take to get my stang into the low 14s high 13s so i can run with the kids around here... My car is a 1968 289 with 2 barrel and c-4. Only mods are full length headers and glass packs which im ditching for 2 chamber flows cuz they are too loud. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. ------------------ 1968 Mustang Coupe. 289 2v. c-4 automatic Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

03-24-2000, 10:49 AM	#2
Clark Rodgers Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Rowlett,Texas Posts: 306	Two things I can think of right off the bat is 4V carb/intake and some taller gears. These will probably be the easiest things to change and get you the most bang for the buck. If you want to enter the engine we could get into some good stuff . ------------------ 69 351W Sportsroof deluxe

03-24-2000, 11:43 PM	#3
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	Yes, lets enter the engine. Speed is good. Umm.. how about a cam too. something that will give me a bad *** power band right up to 5500rpms.. can my stock bottom end handle that engine speed? I would go with a 600 or 650cfm with vacumm secondaries and a performer RPM intaeke? Then I would need a good cam grind, something with good low end as well as horses right up to 5500 thats as high as i want to go with this car. Will my 8 in be good enough or should I get a 9? ------------------ 1968 Mustang Coupe. 289 2v. c-4 automatic Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

03-25-2000, 05:02 PM	#4
BigBad65 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Carol Stream, IL USA Posts: 2	I use the whole Edelbrock RPM package with a 750 carb in my car, and it puts me right into the low 14's with a 6000rpm shift point and that was with my old 3 speed, and stock 3.00 gearing. Although I dont recomend putting anything radical in your car with out a good rebuild. But the block can handle it. ...an 8 inch is plenty strong enough. -kevin ------------------ Sit Down, Shut Up, and Hang On! Check Out my Home Page: http://badboy.stangnet.com

03-28-2000, 07:50 PM	#5
Rev Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Houston, Tx. Posts: 3,887	My '66 runs low 14's with the mods listed in my signature. The Currie 8" 3.25 Traction-lock has held up well with the C-4. There shouldn't be any problems with bottom end for a 289 0r 302 with this level of power. You should have good aftermarket rod bolts though. I have Pioneer but ARP are probably better. Rev ------------------ '66 Coupe, 306, windage tray, TRW flat tops, 351W heads,pocket ported, 268 CC hydraulic cam, R tip R's, Edelbrock Performer, 600 CFM Holley vac. secs., Mallory Unilite, coil, fuel pump, Tri-Y headers, 2 1/2 " custom pipes, 3 chamber Flows, stock C-4, 3.25 Currie built 8" rear and whatever else I forgot. 14.17 e.t., 97 mph 1/4 mi.

03-28-2000, 08:23 PM	#6
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	Rev, Remember his 68 is about 350 pounds heavier than your Coupe. I would go for the Performer RPM package from Edelbrock. It has a 1500 to 6500 RPM power band. 9.5 to 1 comp. Dual plane and 4 barrel. Then maybe a gear change but be careful since you have a C4 not to go too crazy. With the exhaust, go Flowmasters and squeeze out another 12 or so HP by going to the Dr. Gas X pipe. Another 10 or so HP using an underdrive crank pulley, K&N filter, MSD 6AL and a Blaster II coil. Now we could always ad about a 100 HP shot and off we go. Ron [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-28-2000).]

03-29-2000, 11:52 PM	#7
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	I was thinking about the 125 hp shot but i iam unsure if the engine could handle it. Is theere a certain compression ratio that nitrous likes? ------------------ 1968 Mustang Coupe. 289 2v. c-4 automatic Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

03-30-2000, 10:25 PM	#8
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	Also, if I installed a B&M AOD, would it be ok to race? I heard you can't shift them yourself because you have to put it in Drive then First Then back to drive because there is no 2nd gear selection. This also ruins the overdrive. Fact or Fiction? Can this be fixed? I NEED OVERDRIVE! ------------------ 1968 Mustang Coupe. 289 2v. c-4 automatic Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.

03-31-2000, 12:44 AM	#9
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	If you have cast pistons, I might not go over 100 HP, with hypereutectics 150, and forged I have no fear of going 200 and up, if all the other pieces of the puzzle are in place. Main girdle support, ARP rod bolts and so on. I run a 100 HP on my 302, right off the line we are wide open. Never had a problem. Check my plugs after every pass. Keep an eye on the timing. 2 degrees retarted for every hundred horse. On my Coupe I had a Jacobs Mastermind. Came on real slow, and the flow of the NOS increased as the RPM's came up. Reached the 100HP level at around 5K. Compression ratio on both cars is around 10.0/1. As far as the gear box, look at the Lentech AOD. They install a valve body, so it is a normal shift pattern, rather than what you describe. I run a ATI C4 in my 65 FB, but it almost never sees the streets, so gas mileage is not an issue. If you need more info on Lentech, I have some articles on their tranny's and phone numbers. Ron Almost forgot, I have a 68 FB on my site, you might get a kick out of...so far a 5 year project but almost done. www.rfedd.bigstep.com [This message has been edited by Ron1 (edited 03-31-2000).]

04-01-2000, 06:24 PM	#10
351w67MustangGuy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 103	Hey Ron i would LOVE that lentech AOD info. I have a c4 right now and it has completely lost reverse, 1st has almost become neutral and 2nd is on it's way out. I am also upgrading to a 9" and wondering what gears i should go for and since this is my only car and it get driven EVERYDAY on the freeway an overdrive would be helpful. ------------------ 67 Mustang Coupe w/351 Windsor 405hp 2.79 gears & street tires ran 13.01 @ 105.9 mph

04-01-2000, 06:26 PM	#11
351w67MustangGuy Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: Bay Area, California Posts: 103	oh yeah and when is that 68 going to be up and running? i'm dying to hear what happens.

04-01-2000, 09:08 PM	#12
Ron1 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Vancouver, WA USA Posts: 439	I went back thru the article, and it says it is Lentech Automatics, Richmond, Ontario, Canada. I went back thru some of my back issues of ND could not find a phone number, but I know they run adds in all the major Ford magazines. The article does say they have many HP levels and prices. If you decide to go with the AOD I might go with 3.77's. If you have not upgraded to the 9 inch yet, I might even consider shortening it. If you read thru the info on the 68 on the page, I was able to squeeze 10.5 inch slicks with no major clearance problems. I am hoping to have the 514 68 ready by July. The season just started here and I am in the points running this year, so time and $$$ is really tight. Ron

04-04-2000, 09:18 PM	#13
dark horse Registered Member Join Date: Apr 1999 Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA 1968Mustang Posts: 188	Yeah my c4 is losing reverse! it sucks! ------------------ 1968 Mustang Coupe. 289 2v. c-4 automatic Dual exhaust and full legth headers with glasspacks.