URGENT!!! PLEASE HELP!!!

07-13-2001, 04:50 PM

I posted this in Windsor Power but no one seemed to know or respond. I have a '69 Mustang with a 351W/C4/8" 3.00:1 open combo. I ordered a new 9" Currie rear end 2 weeks ago. 31 spline heavy duty axles and housings, Traction-Lok center section with 3.70s. My question: will my stock driveshaft with my current 8" rear end fit right up with the new 9" rear end? Or what will I have to do/purchase to make this work out? I DO NOT want to buy a new d/s. I am 90% sure my junk yard does not have one that would work either. Please help! My new heavy duty leaf springs arrived today and the rear end will be here any day! Thanks in advance.

------------------
'69 Coupe with 351W
=========================
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads
=========================
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

Fostang · 07-13-2001, 07:57 PM

9" rear ends are longer therefore it might be neccesary to have it cut and rebalanced. Test to fit but make sure even if it does go in that it doesn't go in too far because when you accelerate and the rear end springs nothing good will come from it when it goes back into place and strikes the transmission wall.

------------------
67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

Gearhead999 · 07-13-2001, 09:57 PM

I changed my 68 from a 8" to 9". The driveshaft fit perfect. No problem-o.

69fastback · 07-13-2001, 10:00 PM

U can always use the same drive shaft and just have it cut and rebalanced by a shop. It is cheaper than buying a new one. Mustang plus will also make u a brand new aluminum driveshaft all u have to do is call them and tell them what u have and they make it for u. www.mustangplus.com

------------------
69 428 cobra jet: tons of mods.
97 f-150 5.4 xlt mark III
BUCKLE UP. SUCK IT IN.
Objects in the mirror are about to disappear...
QUICKLY!!!!!!

07-15-2001, 08:06 PM

It's 2-1. What kind of places cut and rebalance driveshafts? I live in a pretty small town and I don't really have a clue how far I would have to go to get this done. I live in the panhandle of Nebraska so I'll probably have to ship it somewhere. But what kind of shops do this?

Gearhead- What kind of 9" rear did you put in your 68? And are you positive it was a 8" that was in it before?

------------------
'69 Coupe with 351W
=========================
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads
=========================
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

Gearhead999 · 07-15-2001, 09:19 PM

I bought the rear from a place in Hemmings. It was in Maryland, sold used parts. Everyone here, Orlando, FL, was trying to sell me a Lincoln Versille [spelling] rear. They were all totally junk and they wanted a small fortune for them. Sorry, can't remember the name right now. If I can find it I will give it to you.

Yep, it was a 3.00 8 inch rear. I changed to a 3.50 9 inch, trac-lok. It is only 28 splines. Strickly a bolt in took maybe 2 or 3 hours.

[This message has been edited by Gearhead999 (edited 07-15-2001).]

07-15-2001, 10:46 PM

man...you definitely know what you are talking about. i had 3.00 open 8", going to the currie 9" with 3.70s and trac-lok. 31 spline heavy duty axles.

I AM CONFUSED!!! haha...don't poke fun at me.

fostang- so you don't know for sure if I'll have to get it cut? you're just saying it is a possibility? how much would that cost anyways? and how will i be able to tell if it goes in TOO far?

I got new leaf springs too, how long should this all take me and my dad?

------------------
'69 Coupe with 351W
=========================
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads
=========================
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

Gearhead999 · 07-16-2001, 07:38 PM

To change everything with new springs, on the ground. Probably the best part of an afternoon. Do youself a favor and start soaking the spring "U" bolts and eye bolts with a good penatrating oil like PB Blaster. Do it everyday for a few days. It will make the removal a whole lot easier.

The slip yoke should go in the back of the transmission aproximatly half way with the car on the ground and the weight of the car on the wheels. This will give it room to slip in and out as the car goes over dips and humps.

If you have to cut the driveshaft this is when you'll find out. I had mine cut and balanced for about $50-60.

I would double check the rear U joint. In fact just replace it, while you have it out. You have to make sure that it, the rear u-joint on the driveshaft, will fit the yoke on the new "9" rear. If not get the right one.

Also, does the new rear of brakes and brake lines?? Are you reusing yours off the 8 inch?? If you are, no problem. But, the steel lines may be rusty, soak them with PB Blaster too. You may op to change them to new with the new rear too. Also, the brake hose too.

Don't forget to hook up the breather.

Run the new rear on jackstands for 10-15 minutes or so before you take it out on the road. This will run in the gears and clutch packs. I'm sure you're adding friction modifier too.

Have fun, burn the tires off it then. Oh, yeah one word of warning...Watch the wet road till you get the feel of it. It WILL FISH TAIL when wet.

[This message has been edited by Gearhead999 (edited 07-16-2001).]

07-17-2001, 05:56 PM

Thanks Gearhead, you've been a TON of help lately. Thanks for that, I really appreciate it a lot.

$50-60 isn't bad. A lot less than I expected actually. I just have no clue where I would have to take/send it to have it cut and rebalanced. You said you had yours cut and rebalanced. Did you have to have yours cut when you did this job on your '68?

I'm reusing the drum brakes off my stock 8" rear now. The brake lines are new, the guy doing the exhaust work had to break one to do the tailpipes properly, but he gave us the exhaust tips for free so he made up for it. So the brakes are taken care of. No problem there.

I should just be able to get U-loints at the local Pronto or Napa right? 9" rears are pretty common so they should have them. If not they can order them for me.

------------------
'69 Coupe with 351W
=========================
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads
=========================
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

jwboner · 07-17-2001, 06:54 PM

I switched from 8" to 9" without having to change anything but rear Ujoint. Over some 35 years who knows what kind of driveshaft they have unless they are original owner. My brother did same thing and he had to get shaft shortened. Cars with autos have different lengths than manuals it seems, but every situation is a little different.

Gearhead999 · 07-17-2001, 07:35 PM

The driveshaft didn't have to be cut when I changed the rear. Only when I changed from a C-4 to an AOD.

If you need shaft cut. Truck repair places usually know where to get drivetrain repairs. Also, look in Yellow pages, under Tk repair/drivetrain. Also, many wrecking yards know where to get shaft cut too.

U-joints should be available at any parts store.

07-17-2001, 09:10 PM

Ok, thanks guys. You all helped a bunch.

I don't think I really have any more questions. Surprising, huh? I'm usually full of them. I guess now I'm just waiting on the thing to get here! Currie said 2-3 weeks when I ordered it. It will be 3 weeks on Friday, so it should be here any day! I'm excited. I can't wait to feel those gears behind me!

Well, thanks again guys. You have helped me unbelievably, it would just be nice to have a couple of you here when my dad and I get ready to start spinning wrenches.

And now that I think of it, anybody interested in buying a 8" rear? Original 3.00:1 gears, open differential.

------------------
'69 Coupe with 351W
=========================
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads
=========================
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

ITCHYCODS · 07-18-2001, 10:52 PM

I'M SORRY I'M GETTING IN LATE, BUT I JUST JOINED UP. I ALSO SWAPPED FROM AN 8" TO A
9" IN MY '68 AND DID NOT HAVE TO CUT MY D/S.
BUT I DID HAVE TO SWAP YOKES. THE ONE FROM
THE 8" IS THE SAME, BUT IN YOUR CASE, WITH
A CURRIE REAR, I DEFINITELY WOULD NOT TAKE THE YOKE LOOSE-FOR FEAR OF MESSING UP THE
PINION PRELOAD. IF THE U-J IS DIFFERENT,
AND/OR YOU REPLACE IT, MAKE SURE THE GREASE
ZERT FACES THE DRIVESHAFT, NOT THE YOKE. ALSO, MAKE SURE AND INSTALL IT SO THAT THE TORQUE FROM THE DRIVESHAFT "SQUEEZES" THE ZERT HOLE INSTEAD OF "SPREADING" THE HOLE.
I HAVE TO HOLD THE U/J IN MY HAND AND PICTURE IT ROTATING IN MY MIND TO FIGURE OUT HOW IT GOES. AS FAR AS THE SLIP YOKE GOES, I JUST MAKE SURE THAT I HAVE ABOUT 1 3/4 TO 2" STICKING OUT OF THE TRANS (4SPD IN MY CASE)
OUTPUT SEAL WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR ON THE
GROUND. IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO PUSH THE SHAFT ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANS UNTIL IT BOTTOMS
AND NOTE HOW FAR IT COMES BACK OUT AFTER IT'S
INSTALLED. YOU NEED AT LEAST 1 TO 1 1/2" DIFFERENCE. SORRY TO HAVE RAMBLED ON. GOOD LUCK-IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'LL HAVE A SCREAMER
WHEN YOUR DONE.

------------------
85 W/289,10.5 TO 1,J302 HEADS
4.11,C4,3800 STALL,VIC JR,675
RACE DEMON,ALUM D/S,BATTLE
BOXES,SF CONNECTORS,COWL HOOD,
250 SHOT JUICE,BALLS TO THE WALL

Gearhead999 · 07-19-2001, 06:49 PM

There is a market for the 8 inch. Street rodders use them. They are cheaper then 9 inch and are usually close to the right width. They don't care, usually, about the ratio. They all have "Pig" 350 ch**y's and 700R trans.

6T9PONY · 07-31-2001, 09:25 AM

ITCHYCODS- So are you saying that I don't have to change yokes? And just u/j's?

I've been measuring a lot of stuff, trying to make sure everything is going to match up real nice. I don't think the length of the d/s is going to be a problem. I measured from the middle of the axle to the front of the yoke on the rear end, and it was right about 12" on both of them. And the yoke size on the old 8" is 2 1/4, same as on the new 9". Everything seems to be the same! WooHoo!

The d/s sticks out about 1 1/2" from the trans, also. We're starting Saturday morning and we have all weekend to do it. We're doing the rear end, new heavy duty leaf springs, changing tranny filter/fluid, mud flaps (big ole 295/50s throw stuff up). I'm anxious. My tranny has been slipping a lot lately, very badly. I hope it's just the filter being clogged up. It didn't start doing it until about a month or a month and a half ago. I guess we'll see. Anything else, besides that it could be going to crap, that would cause this? I don't want to get a new tranny. But if I did, I would get a T-5 conversion in a heartbeat. I bet it's just as cheap if not cheaper to do that than to buy a new C4. I guess there's always that possibility of a rebuild too. Oh, well. Whatever happens, happens. I'll just have to see if I have enough cash to fix it.

------------------
Previously "BennyBoy"
'69 Coupe with 351W
Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4, 9" Currie is here!!, 290hp-stock heads
The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

ultrastang · 07-31-2001, 06:56 PM

I installed a 9-inch rear,in place of my stock 8-inch, in my '68 Mustang. The only thing I had to change was the rear drive shaft U-joint. Ford used two styles of companion flanges: the 1310-series, and the 1330-series flanges. The 1310's are 3 3/16" across, where the U-joint cups seat into the flange. The 1330's are 3 11/16" across. I used a 1310-series flange from a Ford F-100 pick-up. The truck companion flanges are shallower than ones you will find on full-sized Ford passenger cars. My car's driveshaft measures 51-inches, center-to-center, from the front U-joint eye to the rear U-joint eye. If you use a 1310 flange, Napa U-jiont p/n 369 should work. If you use the 1330 flange, Napa U-joint p/n 353 should work.

07-13-2001, 04:50 PM	#1
BennyBoy Guest Posts: n/a	URGENT!!! PLEASE HELP!!! I posted this in Windsor Power but no one seemed to know or respond. I have a '69 Mustang with a 351W/C4/8" 3.00:1 open combo. I ordered a new 9" Currie rear end 2 weeks ago. 31 spline heavy duty axles and housings, Traction-Lok center section with 3.70s. My question: will my stock driveshaft with my current 8" rear end fit right up with the new 9" rear end? Or what will I have to do/purchase to make this work out? I DO NOT want to buy a new d/s. I am 90% sure my junk yard does not have one that would work either. Please help! My new heavy duty leaf springs arrived today and the rear end will be here any day! Thanks in advance. ------------------ '69 Coupe with 351W ========================= Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads ========================= The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

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07-13-2001, 07:57 PM	#2
Fostang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Stockton, Ca Posts: 599	9" rear ends are longer therefore it might be neccesary to have it cut and rebalanced. Test to fit but make sure even if it does go in that it doesn't go in too far because when you accelerate and the rear end springs nothing good will come from it when it goes back into place and strikes the transmission wall. ------------------ 67'fastback-Edelbrock carb,intake,cam,valve springs.Rhode lifters, CompCam rocker arms, windage tray,cerama coated headers,dual flows with H-pipe, modded c-4,tci stall converter,perma cool electric fan,aluminum water pump,griffen aluminum radiator,accel 8.8 cable,wide cap distriburator,magnetic pick up,v-matic hurst shifter,edelbrock performer nitrous, carter electric fuel pump,ignitor coil,solid motor mounts,magna racing suspension,poly urathane bushings,under rider traction bars, comp. eng. s

07-13-2001, 09:57 PM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	I changed my 68 from a 8" to 9". The driveshaft fit perfect. No problem-o.

07-13-2001, 10:00 PM	#4
69fastback IRAQ VET Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: high desert California Posts: 1,480	U can always use the same drive shaft and just have it cut and rebalanced by a shop. It is cheaper than buying a new one. Mustang plus will also make u a brand new aluminum driveshaft all u have to do is call them and tell them what u have and they make it for u. www.mustangplus.com ------------------ 69 428 cobra jet: tons of mods. 97 f-150 5.4 xlt mark III BUCKLE UP. SUCK IT IN. Objects in the mirror are about to disappear... QUICKLY!!!!!!

07-15-2001, 08:06 PM	#5
BennyBoy Guest Posts: n/a	It's 2-1. What kind of places cut and rebalance driveshafts? I live in a pretty small town and I don't really have a clue how far I would have to go to get this done. I live in the panhandle of Nebraska so I'll probably have to ship it somewhere. But what kind of shops do this? Gearhead- What kind of 9" rear did you put in your 68? And are you positive it was a 8" that was in it before? ------------------ '69 Coupe with 351W ========================= Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads ========================= The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

07-15-2001, 09:19 PM	#6
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	I bought the rear from a place in Hemmings. It was in Maryland, sold used parts. Everyone here, Orlando, FL, was trying to sell me a Lincoln Versille [spelling] rear. They were all totally junk and they wanted a small fortune for them. Sorry, can't remember the name right now. If I can find it I will give it to you. Yep, it was a 3.00 8 inch rear. I changed to a 3.50 9 inch, trac-lok. It is only 28 splines. Strickly a bolt in took maybe 2 or 3 hours. [This message has been edited by Gearhead999 (edited 07-15-2001).]

07-15-2001, 10:46 PM	#7
BennyBoy Guest Posts: n/a	man...you definitely know what you are talking about. i had 3.00 open 8", going to the currie 9" with 3.70s and trac-lok. 31 spline heavy duty axles. I AM CONFUSED!!! haha...don't poke fun at me. fostang- so you don't know for sure if I'll have to get it cut? you're just saying it is a possibility? how much would that cost anyways? and how will i be able to tell if it goes in TOO far? I got new leaf springs too, how long should this all take me and my dad? ------------------ '69 Coupe with 351W ========================= Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads ========================= The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

07-16-2001, 07:38 PM	#8
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	To change everything with new springs, on the ground. Probably the best part of an afternoon. Do youself a favor and start soaking the spring "U" bolts and eye bolts with a good penatrating oil like PB Blaster. Do it everyday for a few days. It will make the removal a whole lot easier. The slip yoke should go in the back of the transmission aproximatly half way with the car on the ground and the weight of the car on the wheels. This will give it room to slip in and out as the car goes over dips and humps. If you have to cut the driveshaft this is when you'll find out. I had mine cut and balanced for about $50-60. I would double check the rear U joint. In fact just replace it, while you have it out. You have to make sure that it, the rear u-joint on the driveshaft, will fit the yoke on the new "9" rear. If not get the right one. Also, does the new rear of brakes and brake lines?? Are you reusing yours off the 8 inch?? If you are, no problem. But, the steel lines may be rusty, soak them with PB Blaster too. You may op to change them to new with the new rear too. Also, the brake hose too. Don't forget to hook up the breather. Run the new rear on jackstands for 10-15 minutes or so before you take it out on the road. This will run in the gears and clutch packs. I'm sure you're adding friction modifier too. Have fun, burn the tires off it then. Oh, yeah one word of warning...Watch the wet road till you get the feel of it. It WILL FISH TAIL when wet. [This message has been edited by Gearhead999 (edited 07-16-2001).]

07-17-2001, 05:56 PM	#9
BennyBoy Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks Gearhead, you've been a TON of help lately. Thanks for that, I really appreciate it a lot. $50-60 isn't bad. A lot less than I expected actually. I just have no clue where I would have to take/send it to have it cut and rebalanced. You said you had yours cut and rebalanced. Did you have to have yours cut when you did this job on your '68? I'm reusing the drum brakes off my stock 8" rear now. The brake lines are new, the guy doing the exhaust work had to break one to do the tailpipes properly, but he gave us the exhaust tips for free so he made up for it. So the brakes are taken care of. No problem there. I should just be able to get U-loints at the local Pronto or Napa right? 9" rears are pretty common so they should have them. If not they can order them for me. ------------------ '69 Coupe with 351W ========================= Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads ========================= The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

07-17-2001, 06:54 PM	#10
jwboner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Under the hood Posts: 164	I switched from 8" to 9" without having to change anything but rear Ujoint. Over some 35 years who knows what kind of driveshaft they have unless they are original owner. My brother did same thing and he had to get shaft shortened. Cars with autos have different lengths than manuals it seems, but every situation is a little different.

07-17-2001, 07:35 PM	#11
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	The driveshaft didn't have to be cut when I changed the rear. Only when I changed from a C-4 to an AOD. If you need shaft cut. Truck repair places usually know where to get drivetrain repairs. Also, look in Yellow pages, under Tk repair/drivetrain. Also, many wrecking yards know where to get shaft cut too. U-joints should be available at any parts store.

07-17-2001, 09:10 PM	#12
BennyBoy Guest Posts: n/a	Ok, thanks guys. You all helped a bunch. I don't think I really have any more questions. Surprising, huh? I'm usually full of them. I guess now I'm just waiting on the thing to get here! Currie said 2-3 weeks when I ordered it. It will be 3 weeks on Friday, so it should be here any day! I'm excited. I can't wait to feel those gears behind me! Well, thanks again guys. You have helped me unbelievably, it would just be nice to have a couple of you here when my dad and I get ready to start spinning wrenches. And now that I think of it, anybody interested in buying a 8" rear? Original 3.00:1 gears, open differential. ------------------ '69 Coupe with 351W ========================= Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Edelbrock lifters, Edelbrock double roller timing chain, Edelbrock valve springs, Accel coil, Moroso Blue-Max wires, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, Flex fan, Lakewood traction bars, C4, 9" Currie on order, 290hp-stock heads ========================= The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

07-18-2001, 10:52 PM	#13
ITCHYCODS Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Posts: 1	I'M SORRY I'M GETTING IN LATE, BUT I JUST JOINED UP. I ALSO SWAPPED FROM AN 8" TO A 9" IN MY '68 AND DID NOT HAVE TO CUT MY D/S. BUT I DID HAVE TO SWAP YOKES. THE ONE FROM THE 8" IS THE SAME, BUT IN YOUR CASE, WITH A CURRIE REAR, I DEFINITELY WOULD NOT TAKE THE YOKE LOOSE-FOR FEAR OF MESSING UP THE PINION PRELOAD. IF THE U-J IS DIFFERENT, AND/OR YOU REPLACE IT, MAKE SURE THE GREASE ZERT FACES THE DRIVESHAFT, NOT THE YOKE. ALSO, MAKE SURE AND INSTALL IT SO THAT THE TORQUE FROM THE DRIVESHAFT "SQUEEZES" THE ZERT HOLE INSTEAD OF "SPREADING" THE HOLE. I HAVE TO HOLD THE U/J IN MY HAND AND PICTURE IT ROTATING IN MY MIND TO FIGURE OUT HOW IT GOES. AS FAR AS THE SLIP YOKE GOES, I JUST MAKE SURE THAT I HAVE ABOUT 1 3/4 TO 2" STICKING OUT OF THE TRANS (4SPD IN MY CASE) OUTPUT SEAL WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR ON THE GROUND. IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO PUSH THE SHAFT ALL THE WAY INTO THE TRANS UNTIL IT BOTTOMS AND NOTE HOW FAR IT COMES BACK OUT AFTER IT'S INSTALLED. YOU NEED AT LEAST 1 TO 1 1/2" DIFFERENCE. SORRY TO HAVE RAMBLED ON. GOOD LUCK-IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU'LL HAVE A SCREAMER WHEN YOUR DONE. ------------------ 85 W/289,10.5 TO 1,J302 HEADS 4.11,C4,3800 STALL,VIC JR,675 RACE DEMON,ALUM D/S,BATTLE BOXES,SF CONNECTORS,COWL HOOD, 250 SHOT JUICE,BALLS TO THE WALL

07-19-2001, 06:49 PM	#14
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	There is a market for the 8 inch. Street rodders use them. They are cheaper then 9 inch and are usually close to the right width. They don't care, usually, about the ratio. They all have "Pig" 350 ch**y's and 700R trans.

07-31-2001, 09:25 AM	#15
6T9PONY All about the Windsor. Join Date: Feb 2000 Posts: 2,052	ITCHYCODS- So are you saying that I don't have to change yokes? And just u/j's? I've been measuring a lot of stuff, trying to make sure everything is going to match up real nice. I don't think the length of the d/s is going to be a problem. I measured from the middle of the axle to the front of the yoke on the rear end, and it was right about 12" on both of them. And the yoke size on the old 8" is 2 1/4, same as on the new 9". Everything seems to be the same! WooHoo! The d/s sticks out about 1 1/2" from the trans, also. We're starting Saturday morning and we have all weekend to do it. We're doing the rear end, new heavy duty leaf springs, changing tranny filter/fluid, mud flaps (big ole 295/50s throw stuff up). I'm anxious. My tranny has been slipping a lot lately, very badly. I hope it's just the filter being clogged up. It didn't start doing it until about a month or a month and a half ago. I guess we'll see. Anything else, besides that it could be going to crap, that would cause this? I don't want to get a new tranny. But if I did, I would get a T-5 conversion in a heartbeat. I bet it's just as cheap if not cheaper to do that than to buy a new C4. I guess there's always that possibility of a rebuild too. Oh, well. Whatever happens, happens. I'll just have to see if I have enough cash to fix it. ------------------ Previously "BennyBoy" '69 Coupe with 351W Edelbrock RPM intake, Edelbrock RPM cam, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Hedman headers, 2 1/2" pipe, glasspacks, C4, 9" Currie is here!!, 290hp-stock heads The Surgeon General didn't say anything about smoking your azz!!

07-31-2001, 06:56 PM	#16
ultrastang Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Fordyce, AR, USA Posts: 13	I installed a 9-inch rear,in place of my stock 8-inch, in my '68 Mustang. The only thing I had to change was the rear drive shaft U-joint. Ford used two styles of companion flanges: the 1310-series, and the 1330-series flanges. The 1310's are 3 3/16" across, where the U-joint cups seat into the flange. The 1330's are 3 11/16" across. I used a 1310-series flange from a Ford F-100 pick-up. The truck companion flanges are shallower than ones you will find on full-sized Ford passenger cars. My car's driveshaft measures 51-inches, center-to-center, from the front U-joint eye to the rear U-joint eye. If you use a 1310 flange, Napa U-jiont p/n 369 should work. If you use the 1330 flange, Napa U-joint p/n 353 should work.