Idling Sucks W/surging&stumbling

[Philossifer]

Originally Posted by randbstar

Hey everyone!
I need some assistance on this issue i keep encountering.

PROBLEM: Idle problems, such as surging or stumbling.

SECOND ISSUE: when it is driving "normal" after about 5 minutes or so i suddenly loose COMPLETE power. My RPM are dropping drastically. I press on gas pedal for more gas but nothing. When my foot is on the accelerator nothing happens but when i am releasing my foot off it, that's when the power is trying to kick in and starts surging. At this time i am just cruising down the street with no power. I pull off the road and come to a stop BUT before i can stop the car cuts off.

What the heck is up with this 50?????

SO i am willing to take any suggestions and try something else.

Do anybody know if adjusting the idling setting on he throttel body will help?

Any assistance is greatly appreicated!!!!

I had had an idle problem for a long time, which initially, I thought was caused by the TPS not adjusted, a dirty/defective MAF, a dirty/defective IAB, or all of the above.

After cleaning, checking, cleaning and checking again, I ended up replacing the IAB and the MAF and adjusted the TPS. Still no luck…..depending on where the idle screw was adjusted, the idle would either hang (screw turned in more) or the idle would stumble and want to stall (screw turned out more.)

So I tried a different approach; first I adjusted the idle as indicated in my Chilton’s service manual. With this setting, the idle was perfect except it would hang for about 5 or 6 seconds before settling in. Then over the next week, everyday, before driving the car, I would turn the idle screw outward about 1/8 turn. Eventually, after about 4 or 5 days of closing the throttle plate 1/8 turn at a time and driving the car, the idle found its niche. Now, my engine idles well, no stumble and no hanging idle problem.

As for your second problem; my car did the same thing on two different occasions. The first time, it was the ignition coil. It would run fine until it warmed up and then the engine would just die. I guess the heat was causing the coil to build internal resistance to the point where it wouldn’t produce enough voltage to fire the plugs.

Second time it was my fuel pump. Same thing except more random. I could drive all day and the engine would die one block away from my house. Sometimes it would die while backing out of the driveway and then, on some days, it would run fine without cutting out at all. Drove me f’in nuts! I don’t think I actually figured out the problem. One day I just decided to install a new fuel pump, and luckily, it corrected the stalling problem.
Good luck,
Phil

[randbstar]

Thanks for the info.
I plan on adjusting the idle today and for the next week will see which level it rides fine on.

Also i replaced my fuel pump as i had initially thought that was the reason since it seemed as though when driving it wasn't getting enough gas.

I am on a mission to find out the problem. So thanks for the information.

Will see what happens!

Thanks Phil!

Sierra

[redsn95vert]

this may sound dumb, but what temp t-stat are you running. If you're running too cool of a temp it won't let the computer get into closed loop and would cause the samr problems. I know because I tried to run a 160 t-stat and had the same problems.

[randbstar]

I am not sure. I believe i have a stock Temp, possibly 195???
I will have to check.........

[randbstar]

OKAY! i have SOLVED the big problem of the year!
After i changed TPS, IAB and almost changed the EGR i cleaned the MAF and it cleared right up. Man I am so happy that problem is OVER!!!!!